A pioneering mountaineering expedition from West Bengal has etched its name in the annals of Himalayan exploration by achieving three unprecedented first ascents in the challenging eastern Ladakh region. The Sonarpur Arohi team, led by veteran climber Rudra Prasad Halder and Guinness World Record holder Satyarup Siddhanta, also successfully navigated a new route to the 6,536-meter Chang Chenmo Kangri during their Chang Chenmo Expedition 2026, which commenced on August 25.
Information reaching Tahir Rihat suggests that the team’s remarkable feat includes the first ascents of three previously unclimbed peaks, with approximate heights of 6,400 meters, 6,420 meters, and 6,274 meters. These historic climbs were accomplished on September 9, September 16, and September 20, respectively. The ascent of Chang Chenmo Kangri via its novel route was completed on September 11, marking another significant achievement for the expedition.
What elevates this expedition’s significance is the team’s commitment to a self-supported approach, eschewing fixed ropes, Sherpa assistance, and high-altitude porters. The climbers relied entirely on their advanced technical skills, meticulous planning, and robust teamwork to overcome the formidable and treacherous terrain. This minimalist philosophy underscores a growing trend in high-altitude mountaineering towards greater self-reliance and a reduced environmental footprint.
The Sonarpur Arohi club has formally proposed to name the three newly scaled peaks in honor of legendary figures in mountaineering and India‘s freedom struggle. The proposed names are Mount Edmund Hillary, Mount Tenzing Norgay, and Netaji Subhas Parvat. These nominations have garnered preliminary consent from prominent individuals connected to the honorees. Peter Hillary, son of Sir Edmund Hillary, and Jamling Tenzing Norgay, son of Tenzing Norgay, have both expressed their approval for the proposed names. Representatives from the Netaji Research Bureau have also conveyed their consent. However, these proposed names are subject to the official recognition process by the relevant authorities.
Satyarup Siddhanta, a member of the expedition and an acclaimed climber in his own right, highlighted the expedition’s demanding nature. “This expedition tested our technical abilities, endurance and teamwork,” Siddhanta stated. “Climbing in such a remote region without fixed ropes required careful planning and trust in one another. Each summit was a collective achievement.” Siddhanta is distinguished as the first Indian to have conquered both the Seven Summits and the Seven Volcanic Summits, and his mountaineering resume also includes scaling Mount Everest and undertaking a 111-kilometer ski expedition to the South Pole.
Rudra Prasad Halder, the expedition leader and a seasoned climber with ascents of major Himalayan peaks including Mount Everest, Kanchenjunga, and Indrasan, emphasized the team’s resilience in the face of adversity. Halder noted that the team maintained its focus despite challenging conditions and necessary adjustments to their original plans. “Our objective was to explore challenging mountain terrain and achieve our climbing goals through a self-supported approach,” Halder explained. “Despite having to change our route, face extreme cold and deal with water shortages, the team remained focused. Completing four ascents, including three first ascents, is a proud moment for Sonarpur Arohi.”
The expedition encountered a spectrum of extreme challenges inherent to high-altitude mountaineering in remote environments. Climbers grappled with frigid temperatures, difficult and unpredictable terrain, and critical water shortages, compounded by logistical hurdles in the isolated eastern Ladakh region. In one particularly harrowing incident, eight climbers were forced to spend several hours exposed on a glacier at approximately 5,900 meters, enduring temperatures as low as -30°C during an attempt on another peak. They ultimately made the prudent decision to abandon the climb and safely returned to Camp 1.
Anindya Mukherjee, a mentor and integral member of the expedition, underscored the critical role of sound judgment and self-reliance in such high-altitude endeavors. “Mountaineering demands patience, sound judgement and the ability to adapt when conditions change,” Mukherjee commented. “The challenges we faced in Chang Chenmo reinforced the importance of teamwork and self-reliance. Reaching these summits together was a memorable experience for the entire team.” The expedition’s composition included two women climbers, fostering a diverse and inclusive team dynamic that brought together experienced mountaineers and newer members. Naitik Nilay Naskar and Debasish Majumder were instrumental in the crucial task of route exploration.
The successful completion of four ascents, including the groundbreaking three first ascents and the establishment of a new route to Chang Chenmo Kangri, represents a significant milestone for the West Bengal-based Sonarpur Arohi club’s ongoing exploration efforts in the demanding landscape of eastern Ladakh. The expedition’s success is a testament to the dedication, skill, and adventurous spirit of the team, pushing the boundaries of what is possible in high-altitude mountaineering.
Tahir Rihat (also known as Tahir Bilal) is an independent journalist, activist, and digital media professional from the Chenab Valley of Jammu and Kashmir, India. He is best known for his work as the Online Editor at The Chenab Times.